Lalibela

Northern Circuit

Introduction to Lalibela

In the heart of Ethiopia, amid postcard-perfect mountainside scenery, rests the sacred town of Lalibela. Roha, as it was originally called, was the capital of the Zagwe dynasty for around 300 years. The town was renamed “Lalibela”, in honor of its monarch, who was responsible for the building of the 11 monolithic churches at the end of the 12th and beginning of the 13th centuries. He named it New Jerusalem. The catalyst for building this sacred place was the Muslim conquests, which halted pilgrimages to the Holy Land. Lalibela flourished after the decline of the Aksumite empire.

The site is acknowledged as being one of the Wonders of the World and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

There are two main clusters of churches, separated by the aptly-named Yordanos or „Jordan“ River. The eleventh (and most visually impressive) church, Bete Giorgis, lies away from the others and can only be accessed via a tunnel.

Each church has its own unique style, but all are carved out of the bedrock. In some intances trenches were excavatated to isolate a solid granite block. Once isolated, these monolithic blocks were chiseled downwards, inch by inch, creating windows, doors, arches, passages and drainage ditches. Some even have openings to catacombs and hermit caves. Other churches were carved into the cliff face and in the instance of Bete Denaghel, the church was carved partially to incorporate an existing cave.

Where most of the Lalibela churches served as places of worhip from the outset, it is believed that two – Bete Gabriel Rafael and Bete Mercurios, were originally built to serve as royal dwellings.

Aside from the awe-inspiring churches of Lalibela, the town is attractive, charming and friendly. Two-story rondavels – Lasta Tukuls, constructed from the local red earth, dot the tranquil countryside. Time appears to stand still here, with locals going about their daily business, seemingly unaware of the rat race that is happening in other parts of the world. To this day Lalibela is regarded a place of pilgrimage and devotion, playing an important part in the religious activity of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church.

Travel Tip

Recommended length of stay: 2-3 Nights
(1-2 nights exploring the churches & architecture + coffee ceremony)
Extra day for hike with mules up to Asheton Maryam

Getting There: Domestic flights daily to and from Addis and other major towns

Major Religion: Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity

UNESCO World Heritage Site

More info

When in Axum

Key Attractions

Stelae Park

The biblical monarch, the legendary Queen of Sheba, was believed to have ruled from Axum over the kingdom of Sheba, also referred to as Saba in Arabia. During that time, King Solomon was reigning as King of Israel, in Jerusalem. The Queen of Sheba made an epic journey to meet the divine king and bestow on him the wealth and gifts of her own monarchy. The fascinating tale is documented in the Bible in I Kings 10:1-13 and II Chronicles.
When visiting Axum you can walk among the ruins of what was once a massive palace with finely-mortared stone walls, deep foundations and its own impressive drainage system. It is believed to be the oldest building in Axum.

St. Mary of Zion Church

According to Ethiopian Orthodox tradition the Ark of the Covenant was removed from Jerusalem by Menelik, understood to be the son of the Biblical King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba. It is believed that he transported the Ark to Tana Cherkos, a monastery located on one of Lake Tana’s islands, where it remained in safekeeping for 800 years. The sacred Ark was then transferred to the Tsion Maryam Church in Axum, where it is believed to remain to this day. These claims are supported by ancient records preserved in the Ethiopian Royal Chronicles. A chosen priest – the Ark’s sole guardian, tends to the affairs of the church in relation to the Ark, but he is forbidden to ever look directly at it. Tourists may enter the compound, but may not approach the chapel.

Queen of Sheba Palace

Ethnographic Museum

The Fetewrari Belay Ethnographic Museum is a private museum that was established in the 1980’s. The museum, which was once the house of an Axumite leader Fetewrari Belay during the time of Emperor Haile Selassie 1’s reign, includes collections that date back to the period of Atse Yohannes IV. The museum and its collections are owned by the family of Fetewrari Belay. The family’s ethnographic antiquities give visitors to this museum valuable insight into the more modern history of the town.

Archeological Museum

Located in the Northern Stelae Field, this well-organized museum contains fascinating collections including objects found in the tombs, Axumite coins and Ge’ez inscriptions dating back over 2,500 years.

Yeha Temple

Situated a little over an hour’s drive from Axum, in the village of Yeha, stands the ancient Temple of the Moon. The Sabaean-style temple, which is preserved to a height of 14 meters, dates back to the 7th or 8th century BC. It was built during the time of the D’mt Kingdom, which preceded the Aksumite Kingdom. Originally a place of worship dedicated to the moon god, Almaqah, the building was converted to a Christian church by Abba Afse, one of the Nine Saints who came to Aksum from the Roman Empire in the 5th century. During the early Christian period many old temples of pagan times were transformed to churches. During recent archaeological excavations Christian religious artifacts of great antiquity, including bells and crosses, were found in the eastern corner of the temple.

Tombs of Kings Ezana & Bazen

The underground tombs are another fascinating site to visit in Axum. It is believe that two of these tombs hold the remains of two ancient kings – Kaleb and Bazen, the latter believed to have been one of the three wise men of the Bible.

Travel Tip

11 churches in the town are named after the King.

There are two season: dry season from October to May and rainy season from mid of June to mid of September.

When entering the churches, the clothes have to be “respectful”, covering enough of the body. Shoes must always be removed before entering churches and mosques

Where to say

Accommodations

Mezena Lodge

Set in a 16-acre countryside estate, east of the town of Lalibela, eco-friendly Mezena Lodge & Spa is truly a haven-within-a-haven of nature and tranquility. The top-notch accommodation comprises 30 stylish, spacious bungalows, all with private verandas that offer views of the idyllic scenery. Facilities include free Wi-Fi, an all-day-dining restaurant, bar, curio shop and spa (sauna & steam room), conference centre and swimming pool. With the Lalibela Airport only 30-minutes’ drive away, Mezena Lodge & Spa is very conveniently located.

Maribela Hotel

Maribela, which means “Lalibela” in Amharic, is located in the hills of Lalibela. Inspired by the legacy of King Lalibela, the facilities at Maribela are designed to offer guests royal treatment. The rooms are spacious and modern, with stylish ensuite bathrooms, and you can look forward to all the modern conveniences of a luxury hotel. These include free Wi-Fi, same day laundry service and around-the-clock housekeeping and front desk service. Designed for ultimate relaxation, you can soak up the exquisite view from the day bed on your private balcony. The restaurant menu offers traditional local fare as well as a selection of continental dishes.